After summer camp in Sequoia National Park ended, an old roommate and close friend picked me up in his recently acquired ’99 Volvo Station Wagon, and away down the mountain we went to San Luis Obispo. I was excited to have a few weeks of quality time after an intense summer work schedule, as well as a place to regroup—some time to get organized, reflect on and process everything from the summer and the past eight months in general.
I’d been to San Luis Obispo—known more commonly as “SLO”—only once before, during a road trip through California I’d taken three years ago with some friends. We were just breezing through as we made our way up Highway 1, and SLO was a pitstop which didn’t involve much more than a quick walk down what I now know to be the main strip—Higuera Street. The whole place had a really good energy, the downtown area was super quaint and inviting—equal parts beach town and college town, snuggled in a sunny valley on the coast with tree-lined avenues, twinkle lights and an overall cheery vibe.
College towns historically are some of my favorite places on the planet, little oases where you can find the open attitudes and values typical of academia paired with small-town charm. In my experience, most college towns are laid-back hamlets that brim with personality, life, and culture despite their tiny size, areas that develop and flourish around the university there.
My friend was staying in a hostel that has been temporarily been converted into long-term living arrangements, a really cute spot (formerly?) known as Hostel Obispo. It was a great home base to explore the city, situated in a charming neighborhood that’s a five-minute walk from downtown and a short drive to everything else in the area.
I found myself quite taken with San Luis Obispo over the two weeks that I spent there. I couldn’t have asked for a better place to decompress after the hectic 7-day-a-week schedule of camp. I wrote this post because I noticed that there weren’t many SLO-related blog posts when I was googling suggestions for activities/restaurants to check out in the area. Below is a list of places that I more or less stumbled upon during my time there and found worth sharing: the list includes a few good burger and pizza joints, one of the most adorable coffeeshops I’ve ever encountered in my life, and a handful of cool things to check out while in the area.
First and Foremost: Wander the Neighborhoods
Is there anyone else out there who loves a good neighborhood stroll? The neighborhoods of San Luis Obispo are absolutely adorable, full of gorgeous and well-maintained turn-of-the-century homes and cheery Craftsman Bungalows (arguably one of my favorite architectural styles). A lot of the older homes have plaques near the entrance, detailing when the house was built and by whom—I think I read somewhere that there’s even an app that can be used to read more about each house’s individual history. East-West routes are generally main roads with more traffic, while a North-South walking route will provide a quieter scenic tour.
I’m partial to a city that takes pride in its gardens, and SLO is no exception. The Central Coast of California is one of the most accommodating climates in the US, offering a very diverse array of vegetation. Plants native to warmer regions (á la palm trees and cacti) grow alongside plants from more continental climatic backgrounds, such as morning glories, oaks, maples, etc. Being surrounded by abundant blooms is an instant mood lift for me, and there are flowers everywhere here.
Rows of sunflowers, succulents, citrus, and avocado trees line the well-manicured lawns hemmed in by white picket fences. You can find little free libraries on almost every block—always a good sign in my book (pun intended).
San Luis Obispo really reminds me of both San Sebastian and Portland (OR). Visually, the landscape is very similar to the Basque Country, with rounded green hills serving as the chilled-out sentries of the stunning coastline. (Only, instead of mountains, these hills are actually inactive volcanoes referred to as morros.) The neighborhoods remind me of Portland in terms of their cozy, relaxed feel and bountiful gardens, but with a tropical twist.
Buchon Street is one of my favorites for a good meander, with its ornate Victorian houses painted the colors of Easter Eggs and stunning horticulture deserving of a Better Homes & Gardens front cover.
(Semi) Touristy Things to Do
Bubblegum Alley
I have to admit that I’m a bit biased—the first and only gum wall in my heart will always be Post Alley in Seattle, being a block away from my previous home in the Emerald City. It’s very possible that SLO’s Bubblegum Alley predates it however, as some locals claim that people have been arranging their used gobs of chewing gum there since the late 70s. Regardless, it’s one of the top tourist destinations to visit, and as it’s right on the main drag of Higuera, you may as well drop by, even if you don’t ‘stick’ around long.
Hit Up The Coast
While I love a sandy beach, I’m not sure it can compare with the epic geographical wonders that are sea caves and cliffs in terms of their captivating beauty. And while the cliffs of Los Osos aren’t quite as august as their more renowned counterparts a little further up the coast in Big Sur, they’re definitely nothing to sneeze at.
Sadly, I only got out to the coast for one day, but there are lots of hiking trails, ethereal forests, and beautiful seascapes in the area. It was a little cloudy the day we went, which happens on the coast from time to time when the mist rolls in. I didn’t mind it though—kind of reminded me all the more of the Basque Country, enhancing the drama of the roiling turquoise waters below us.
Morro Bay is also supposed to be beautiful; from the pictures I’ve seen it reminds me of the rocks of Cannon Beach on the Oregon Coast. Apparently, there’s also a moonstone-covered beach not too far away, but it was quite overcast the day we went out, and opalite’s effect is muted without sunlight, unfortunately. Due to gray skies/limited visibility, both of these are on the list for next time.
Go Hiking!
My friend took me up to Terrace Hill the first night we got to town, probably no more than a 20 minute walk from where we staying. It’s nothing too strenuous and a great place to watch the sunset, with a 360 panoramic view of the city and the surrounding hills and valleys. Great views of the sunset between the silhouettes of the two largest morros, Cerro San Luis and Bishop Peak. If you’re into hiking, apparently the hikes to those peaks are very worthwhile!
The images below were taken on my iPhone and don’t really do the views justice, but trust me—it’s definitely worth the hike if you’re in town.
Things I Didn’t Get to See (but should still be on your list):
The Mission
Founded in 1772 by Junípero Serra, the Mission of San Luis Obispo is one of the oldest along the California coast, named for Saint Louis the Bishop of Toulouse (the full name of both the mission and city is San Luis Obispo de Tolosa). Under normal circumstances it’s open to the public every day of the year, and apparently is still a very popular local parish. As a huge history buff, I would’ve really liked to visit the Mission while I was there, but unfortunately, it was temporarily closed due to COVID.
The Madonna Inn
Something of a hallmark on Highway 1, The Madonna Inn was opened by Central Coast construction giant Alex Madonna and his wife Phyllis in 1958. It quickly became a favorite tourist pitstop within a few years of its opening, famed for its whimsical, baroque pink interiors that would look perfectly at home in a Baz Luhrmann movie. Each of the 110 rooms have their own unique décor and theme, many of which have been used for music video shoots by artists such as Grimes, Foxygen and Lady Antebellum. The famed hotel has been covered by the New York Times, parodied by The Simpsons and even got a sonic shout-out from Weird Al in the late 70s.
In the 21st century, the hotel’s colorful and eccentric vintage decadence translate to ideal Instagram fodder. This place is extra AF and I am here for it. When I first saw it online, it reminded me of the Unicorn in Seattle, one of the best bars EVAH. There’s a bakery and restaurant onsite, the latter being renowned for its steaks, though my interests lay more in having a fancy-schmancy adult beverage in the Silver Cocktail Lounge. My dreams of fabulousness had to be postponed, however, as all the inside dining areas were temporarily closed due to COVID.
The Higuera Street Farmers’ Market
The San Luis Obispo farmers’ market is often lauded as one of the best in the country! It normally takes place every Thursday night from 6-9 p.m. in the heart of the downtown, and includes live entertainment from local artists and musicians. Unfortunately, due to COVID, the market is not currently operating, another item added to my list for next time.
Where to Eat
An interesting fact my friend told me upon arrival was that none of the fast-food restaurants in SLO have drive-thrus, a feature the city enacted to curb competition between local restaurants and larger chains. Pretty cool huh?
Anyways, here are a few places worth a visit if you’re ever in the area.
Woodstock Pizza
We walked by Woodstock’s patio on my first day in town, and I had to do a double-take when a waiter glided past me holding one of the most picture-perfect-looking cheese pizzas I had ever seen. Had it not been uber-crowded on the patio (and had I not been craving Thai in that moment), I would’ve marched my friend right back to this place to help me consume alllll the cheese.
It’s not the cheapest pizza place ever, I’ll admit. Maybe it’s on account of my Midwestern heritage, but I am loath to spend more than $20 on a pizza. I went back a few days later around lunchtime, and it was then that I discovered they have a pretty unbeatable lunch special, with all-you-can-eat slices for $10. Especially by California standards, it’s a steal. It’s limited to what they have out in the display case that day. Still, I went back a few times and found the variety satisfying each time—their cheese and pepperoni are on point and always part of the lineup. I personally would be happy even if those were the only two in the rotation. You definitely get the bang for your buck on this one.
I didn’t have my camera with me when stuffing my face on consecutive rounds, so here’s some food porn from their instagram for you:
Linnaea’s Cafe
I love love love a good café, and find cafés/coffeeshops are usually where I spend a lot of my time when traveling. (Actually, what am I saying? They’re my bread-and-butter hangouts anywhere.) Backpack in tow, my first move is to always survey the scene first before I invest, making sure that there’s an open table before making any moves on a purchase. Aside from the need for caffeine, the way I see it is that a cup of coffee is a bare minimum rent that guarantees you the right to while away a few hours under their roof.
With COVID, coffeeshop wallowing is one of life’s small joys that I’ve been sorely missing. Most cafes and coffee shops are limited to takeout at this point, with a small outdoor seating area if you’re lucky. But c’mon, no outlets, generally spotty wifi—it’s just not the same. I had just picked up the newest Zadie Smith book from Barnes & Noble and was looking for a place to sit, read, think, and write—my usual library/café activities. With the aid of Yelp, I wound up at this little local gem—I admittedly didn’t look far beyond the first couple images, but glimpsed an ivy-laden patio area and decided it was good enough for me.
Little did I know that waiting for me was a veritable urban retreat, the most charming outdoor patio I’ve encountered in recent memory. I felt like I’d stumbled into something from the pages of The Secret Garden. I think this is one of my favorite coffeeshops anywhere, which is high praise coming from a routine flaneur.
Not only is it a popular daytime haunt, but it’s open evenings as well. From what I understand it’s a salon of sorts, and they normally host events there outside of COVID times—small concerts, art installations, poetry readings, etc. The inside seating is off-limits currently, but that was fine by me as the patio’s the sparkling jewel in the crown.
If I were a Cal Poly student, this is where I would spend all my time. Actually, scratch that—if I lived here period, this is where you would be able to find me.
High Street Market & Deli
My friend had lauded High Street Deli as the best restaurant in town. The online reviews were nothing short of stellar, with reviewers warning of the long waits for this famed eatery that’s a favorite among the locals. The Deli’s been around for a hundred years, and was at one time the main general store in the area of town where all the railroad workers lived with their families, a favorite for grabbing a pack of cigarettes and a quality sandwich on their way to and from work. The inside is filled with vintage Americana kitsch, and they offer a wide selection of beverages and chips to complement your glorious sammies.
Though the inside is currently reserved for ordering only due to COVID, they have an adorable outdoor patio on the side of the building where you can enjoy your meal.
Being a sandwich lover myself (and it having been some time since I’d had access to a good deli), I was a glutton and grabbed two—the Hot Pastrami and the Dutch Crunch. As the name indicates, the Hot Pastrami is served hot, so I ate that one first, reserving the Dutch Crunch for later. They were both delicious, but I think the house favorite—the Dutch Crunch—was the winner for me.
For quality burgers—Sylvester’s (Los Osos) / Black Sheep Bar & Grill (Downtown)
I love an old school hamburger stand, and my friend took me to Sylvester’s after our afternoon walking around the sea cliffs, a Mom and Pop hamburger joint on the way back into town. He hated me for taking pictures—oops. The inside is closed for dining right now, but is super adorable.
For those competitive eaters out there, they also offer a competition called “the big one” in which the participants are given a 5 lb burger (2.5 lbs of beef, 2.5 lbs of fixins) to be consumed in under 30 minutes. I left that particular event alone—I was barely able to finish my 1/3 lb Mushroom Swiss. I did however enjoy the pictures of all the competitors over the years that were hung all over the walls. I love any hole-in-the-wall that’s collaged with pictures and inside jokes—makes the place feel homey and familial. They offer a variety of mouthwatering sides, classic milkshakes, and have vegan burgers too!
If you’re in the downtown area and craving a good burg, I recommend Black Sheep Bar & Grill. They’ve got a great selection of burgers and craft beers and refreshing cocktails. The back patio is adorable, and for COVID they’ve blocked off the street in front to create a small dining area. I got the 1117 Chorro my first visit, and the ABC Burger the second time, garlic fries with both—I can never say no to anything garlic. Unfortunately another time where I was so busy wolfing down my food that I couldn’t be bothered to take pictures. Enjoy the prompt, pleasant service and delicious food, though you may have to be rolled out the door when the meal’s over.
SLO Brasserie
For those looking for a more gourmet dining experience, this may be your spot. It’s across the street from Linnaea’s, and when I saw the rounded tables and classic rattan bistro chairs, I knew I had to make it in there sometime. Upon looking at the menu, I determined it’d be for a dessert and a drink—the only mild indulgences I could afford, the price point being a bit out of budget for me.
A fairly new addition to the SLO culinary scene, they boast an impressive wine list. I wandered in probably a little over an hour before close; the last two tables before me left shortly afterward, leaving me with the patio to myself. (Yesssss.) I ordered a Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée and the cheapest bubbles they had, and enjoyed a delightful evening scrolling news articles on my phone while Lester Young played overhead.
Two weeks isn’t enough time to spend in this lovely little coastal town, but these are the places I enjoyed the most during my stay. Between the beautiful gardens, the stunning hikes and seascapes, great dining options and overall charming ambiance, this little gem tucked along Highway 1 is not to be missed. Hopefully next time I go back I’ll get to do a little more exploring and finally be able to visit the Mission and the Madonna Inn!
Have you ever been to San Luis Obispo? What were your favorite things you did, saw or ate there?
Feel free to let me know in the comments. 🙂
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